PHS / AOS Junior Flower Show
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Academy Park High School Students at the SEPOS Orchid Show
From left- Adriana Drones, Brianna Ha, Rasheed Jomandy, Cheyenne Phillips, Kramoh Mansalay, Shara Lighter, Jermere McLeish, and Crystal Nance |
2019 Philadelphia Flower Show
The 2019 Philadelphia Flower Show was held from March 1 - 10, 2019. This year, a Youth Orchid sub-class was added to the Novice Orchid Class to accommodate the orchids entered from our two Junior Flower Shows. Academy Park High School entered all 22 of their orchids, while 9 students from Thomas Mifflin entered orchids.
The teachers (thank you Colleen and Stacey!) delivered the orchids to the convention center on Thursday, February 28th and picked them up on Sunday, March 10th. I volunteered at the convention center for the Thursday drop-off and was allowed to set up the display, which was so exciting for me!!
One of the great things about showing your orchid in the Philadelphia Flower Show is that novice entries are judged on three separate days. This gives you three chances to win a ribbon or to win more than one ribbon.
The teachers (thank you Colleen and Stacey!) delivered the orchids to the convention center on Thursday, February 28th and picked them up on Sunday, March 10th. I volunteered at the convention center for the Thursday drop-off and was allowed to set up the display, which was so exciting for me!!
One of the great things about showing your orchid in the Philadelphia Flower Show is that novice entries are judged on three separate days. This gives you three chances to win a ribbon or to win more than one ribbon.
… and the winners were: |
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First Place: Kramoh Mansalay, Cheyenne Phillips and Rasheed Jomandy
Second Place: Cheyenne Phillips, Deborah Abiola, Rasheed Jomandy, Michael Pelzer, Brianna
Ha, Jermiere McLeish, Zion Norris and Daiyanah Gibson
Third Place: Michael Pelzer, Brianna Ha, Jermiere McLeish, Tysheim Maddox, Brielle Canady
and Ariah Bush
Honorable Mention: Rasheed Jomandy, Tysheim Maddox and Jerry Schiazza
PHS Class Commendation: All of the entries received this ribbon - see the light blue ribbon
in the first photo below.
Second Place: Cheyenne Phillips, Deborah Abiola, Rasheed Jomandy, Michael Pelzer, Brianna
Ha, Jermiere McLeish, Zion Norris and Daiyanah Gibson
Third Place: Michael Pelzer, Brianna Ha, Jermiere McLeish, Tysheim Maddox, Brielle Canady
and Ariah Bush
Honorable Mention: Rasheed Jomandy, Tysheim Maddox and Jerry Schiazza
PHS Class Commendation: All of the entries received this ribbon - see the light blue ribbon
in the first photo below.
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Academy Park High School Participants
(From left to right) Adriana Drones, Brianna Ha, Cheyenne Phillips, Deborah Abiola, Colleen DiMaggio, Kramoh Mansalay
(From left) Jermiere McLeish, Rasheed Jomandy, Tysheim Maddox |
From left: (front) Colleen DiMaggio, Taiai Jay, Brianna Ha, Cheyenne Phillips, Deborah Abiola, Jess Palermo, Kramoh Mansalay (Second row) Nuraldin King, Romondo Harris, Marissa Thomas, Shaquan Goodman, Curtis Maxwell
Not present when the photos were taken:
Shara Lighter Michael Pelzer Jalen Bostic Ahmmed Cooper Divine Edney Terrel Luke Jerry Schiazza |
The students at Academy Park High School were required to raise their orchids at the school. Twenty-two of the original 25 orchids survived and were entered in their Junior Flower Show, which occurred on February 15, 2019. The ribbons were awarded as follows:
- First Place - Kramoh Mansalay
- Second Place - Deborah Abiola, Brianna Ha, Shara Lighter, Jermiere McLeish, and Cheyenne Phillips
- Third Place - Adriana Drones, Michael Pelzer, Jalen Bostic, Ahmmed Cooper, Divine Edney, Shaq Goodman, Romondo Harris, Tajai Jay, Nuraldin King, Terrel Luke, Curtis Maxwell, Jess Palermo, and Marissa Thomas
- Honorable Mention - Rasheed Jomandy, Tysheim Maddox, and Jerry Schiazza
First and Second Place Winners
Third Place Winners |
Third Place Winners
Honorable Mention |
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Besides myself, the following people attended the Academy Park Junior Flower Show, from left to right: Michael Bowell (AOS Judge), Michele McGlynn (Director of Special Education), Jennifer Livingston (Autistic Support Teacher), Dr. Stephen Butz (Superintendent of Schools), Colleen DiMaggio (Gifted Support Teacher), and Sally Gendler (AOS Judge). This orchid program was also featured in the Southeast Delco School District Knightly News, Volume 8, Issue 5, February 2019. |
Thomas Mifflin Class and Junior Flower Show Winners
Thomas Mifflin 6th Grade Class |
Thomas Mifflin Junior Flower Show Winners
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The students at Thomas Mifflin were allowed to take their orchids home to raise. Twenty-four of the twenty-five students took their orchids home. Of those 24 students, nine told me that their orchids had died. Six students brought their orchids back into school for the Junior Flower Show and the other nine chose not to compete. That left seven orchid competing in the Junior Flower Show. Ribbons were awarded as follows:
Junior Flower Show Ribbons:
Junior Flower Show Ribbons:
- First Place - Zion Norris
- Second Place - Jayda Wright
- Third Place - Brielle Canady and Daiyanah Gibson
- Honorable Mention - Nevaeh Jones, Essence Coleman-Bey, and Tamir Sidney
The Thomas Mifflin Junior Flower Show occurred on Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at the Thomas Mifflin School. Unfortunately, that was also the same day that a snow storm decided to arrive in southeastern PA; and, I was unable to make it down to Philadelphia for the show. Luckily, one of the volunteer American Orchid Society (AOS) judges lived in Philadelphia and she was able to make it to the flower show. The photos below are provided by Sally Gendler. Thanks Sally!!!
All of the students who entered the Junior Flower Show also received a Young Growers Award ribbon from the American Orchid Society (AOS).
All of the students who entered the Junior Flower Show also received a Young Growers Award ribbon from the American Orchid Society (AOS).
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It has been a month since the orchids were delivered to the two schools. When I delivered the orchids, the bud spikes were just little nubs on the stems. Look at the photo I posted in my "Orchid Facts" tabs. By now, some of the bud spikes may be long enough to begin staking. You have 2 options when it comes to orchid bud spikes:
Dtps Lioulin Orange |
Phal schlerianna |
1. You can let them alone. Notice that in this picture of my Doritaenopsis Lioulin Orange, the 2 bud spikes are growing out to either side. The bud spikes grew horizontally out from the stem between the leaves. These bud spikes will be strong enough to support the blooms in this position.
I should mention that Doritaenopsis orchids have somewhat short bud stems which allows them to support the blooms in a horizontal position. Other species of Phalaenopsis orchids produce longer, thinner bud spikes. If these types were left unstaked, they would eventually bend downward like the photo of my Phalaenopsis schlerianna. However, this is also a very pretty look for Phalaenopsis orchids. The only drawback here is you may have to raise up your orchid pot to keep the blooms from hitting your table.
I should mention that Doritaenopsis orchids have somewhat short bud stems which allows them to support the blooms in a horizontal position. Other species of Phalaenopsis orchids produce longer, thinner bud spikes. If these types were left unstaked, they would eventually bend downward like the photo of my Phalaenopsis schlerianna. However, this is also a very pretty look for Phalaenopsis orchids. The only drawback here is you may have to raise up your orchid pot to keep the blooms from hitting your table.
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Photo 2 |
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2. You can train the bud spikes to grow upwards, or in any position you would like. Staking and training a bud spike is a slow process. If you try to move them too fast, they can snap off. The problem is they grow outwards, almost horizontally, from the stem in between the leaves. You need to very gently begin to move them into growing upwards.
- First, bend a thick wire into the shape you would like your bud spike to follow.
- (Photo 1) Second, put the wire into the media as close to where the bud spike comes out from in between the leaves as possible.
- (Photo 2) Third, use a large, plastic orchid clip to clip the bud spike to the wire. These clips are gentle on the bud spike and have a lot of give in them. If you don’t have any clips, you can loosely tie the bud spike to the wire with string. At this point, the bud spike will still be growing horizontally, and the wire will be placed vertically. Don’t try to get the bud spike turned vertical; just attach it to the wire.
- (Photo 3) Fourth, bud spikes will grow toward the light. You can use this to your advantage when you start training them. Once they are attached to the wire, turn your orchid so that the side with the bud spike and wire is facing you and the opposite side is facing the window. The bud spike will begin to grow upwards toward the light. As it does, you can add additional plastic orchid clips, or pieces of string, securing it to the wire.
The Pennsylvania Horticulture Society (PHS) is the sponsor of the world-renowned Philadelphia International Flower Show held in March of each year in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. A little-known fact is that since 1975, PHS has also been the sponsor of the Junior Flower Show. The PHS Junior Flower Show is a horticultural exhibition by and for school-age children, pre-school through high school, in the greater Philadelphia region. The Junior Flower Show teaches youth about horticulture and engages them in gardening and sustainable practices. The 2017 Junior Flower Show reached over 4,000 children in the Delaware Valley. More information about the PHS Junior Flower Show can be found at:
I was a middle school teacher for 7 years before throwing myself into my orchids and writing full-time. I love teaching and found that teaching orchid classes was a great way to do both things I enjoy. My passion, however, is teaching youth about orchids.
I have been hosting orchid classes for PHS the last 3 years and was aware of their extensive youth outreach programs. I am also a member of the American Orchid Society’s (AOS) Education Committee. This is what led me to propose a pilot project between PHS and AOS for the 2019 Junior Flower. PHS selected 2 schools that have participated in their Junior Flower Shows in the past: Thomas Mifflin Elementary School and Academy Park High School. I am very excited about this collaboration! To make this even more interesting, youth orchid classes have been added to the Philadelphia Flower Show for 2019. The students in these two classrooms will be able to also enter their orchids in the main flower show in March of 2019.
This project began with the start of the 2018/2019 school year. I created science lessons and activity sheets for the schools that would introduce the students to orchids. (These can be found at the end of this write-up.) The idea is that each student in the class would receive an orchid to raise until their Junior Flower Show which typically occurrs in February of each year. An AOS member, Norman Fang, owner of Norman’s Orchids in Montclair, CA, offered to donate the 50 Phalaenopsis orchids needed for this project.
I have been hosting orchid classes for PHS the last 3 years and was aware of their extensive youth outreach programs. I am also a member of the American Orchid Society’s (AOS) Education Committee. This is what led me to propose a pilot project between PHS and AOS for the 2019 Junior Flower. PHS selected 2 schools that have participated in their Junior Flower Shows in the past: Thomas Mifflin Elementary School and Academy Park High School. I am very excited about this collaboration! To make this even more interesting, youth orchid classes have been added to the Philadelphia Flower Show for 2019. The students in these two classrooms will be able to also enter their orchids in the main flower show in March of 2019.
This project began with the start of the 2018/2019 school year. I created science lessons and activity sheets for the schools that would introduce the students to orchids. (These can be found at the end of this write-up.) The idea is that each student in the class would receive an orchid to raise until their Junior Flower Show which typically occurrs in February of each year. An AOS member, Norman Fang, owner of Norman’s Orchids in Montclair, CA, offered to donate the 50 Phalaenopsis orchids needed for this project.
The orchids arrived at my house on October 18th. We received 50 - Phalaenopsis Fuller's Gold Princess 'Canary' that were nice sized orchids and had already set bud spikes.
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I delivered the orchids to the two classes on Thursday, October 25th. The teachers and students in these classes were wonderful! They were engaged and very interested to learn about orchids. They ask great questions and seemed ready to start caring for their orchids.
Academy Park High School |
Thomas Mifflin School |
We talked about the Orchidaceae family and what makes it different from other flowering plants. I took along my Phalaenopsis bark orchid to explain how epiphytic orchids grow in nature.
Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytic orchids, which means they grow in the air, without the need for soil. Orchids have made adaptations to grow this way: 1) both their leaves and roots absorb water and nutrients and 2) their roots are covered in a sponge-like coating, called velamen, that absorbs and stores water until the plant needs it. This second adaptation is very important to understand, as it is why many people kill orchids. Because of the velamen, orchid roots do not like sitting in water. As a matter of fact, like any sponge, orchid roots rot easily when left in water. When potted, it’s important that orchid roots be allowed to almost dry out between waterings.
Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytic orchids, which means they grow in the air, without the need for soil. Orchids have made adaptations to grow this way: 1) both their leaves and roots absorb water and nutrients and 2) their roots are covered in a sponge-like coating, called velamen, that absorbs and stores water until the plant needs it. This second adaptation is very important to understand, as it is why many people kill orchids. Because of the velamen, orchid roots do not like sitting in water. As a matter of fact, like any sponge, orchid roots rot easily when left in water. When potted, it’s important that orchid roots be allowed to almost dry out between waterings.
We also talked about Phalaenopsis care. Each teacher and their classroom were given copies of my book, “Orchid Care: For the Beginner” and an AOS Culture Sheet for Phalaenopsis orchids:
We discussed the type of light, temperature, and humidity the orchids would need and how often they would need to be watered and fertilized. Luckily, the orchids are potted in clear pots, which makes it much easier to determine when the media has dried out and the orchid should be watered again. We also discussed the type of water to use on the orchids. Orchids like slightly acidic, naturally soft water. They do not like water that is artificially softened or heavily chlorinated or bromated. In those cases, rain water can be collected, or spring water can be purchased. I also left a gallon of pre-mixed orchid fertilizer for each classroom.
Finally, we talked about staking the bud spikes. There are two ways that Phalaenopsis orchid bud spikes can be presented for an orchid show. First, the inflorescence (bud spike and flowers) can be allowed to hang down; and, second, the bud spike can be staked upright.
Finally, we talked about staking the bud spikes. There are two ways that Phalaenopsis orchid bud spikes can be presented for an orchid show. First, the inflorescence (bud spike and flowers) can be allowed to hang down; and, second, the bud spike can be staked upright.
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Each student can decide which way they would like to have their flowers displayed for the orchid shows. I left stakes and orchid clips in each classroom and talked about staking bud spikes. Bud spikes are very delicate and easily broken. If they are going to be staked, you have to wait until they are long enough to fit in a clip, which is usually anywhere from 1 inch to 2 inches. Then, they need to be trained by slowly turning them to go up the stake.
When I left, the students seemed very excited to start caring for their orchids. I will post additional instructions in this tab and will return to each school in February of 2019 to help the students get their orchids ready for their shows. In the meantime, anyone can reach me by posting comments in my Everything Orchid Blog or emailing me at [email protected].
When I left, the students seemed very excited to start caring for their orchids. I will post additional instructions in this tab and will return to each school in February of 2019 to help the students get their orchids ready for their shows. In the meantime, anyone can reach me by posting comments in my Everything Orchid Blog or emailing me at [email protected].
Judy's Day
September 30, 2018
November 10, 2018
It's been a little over a month since we transplanted our orchids at Judy's Day. I've posted pictures of two of mine so you can see what to expect with your little orchids. When an orchid is transplanted, the first thing it does is make more roots. It does this for two reasons: first, it wants to anchor itself in place in its new pot; and second, it's preparing to grow so it needs a way to bring in more water and nutrients. Therefore, you may not be seeing any change in your orchid if all of the root growth is below the surface of the media. You can just see the new roots peeking out of the media in the photos below. As long as the leaves appear the same as when you transplanted it, your orchid is fine. You may not see new leaf or shoot growth for a few months.
BLC Mem. Vida Lee 'Limelight' |
RLC Sharon Forsyth 'Orange Red' |
I had the privilege of hosting a booth on Orchidaceae at the 2018 Judy's Day at the Cornell University Arboretum on September 30, 2018 from 1:00 - 5:00pm. The theme of this year's event was "Plants Have Families, Too". This is a wonderful family-oriented event to teach children about plants.
My booth included:
My booth included:
- Orchid Scavenger Hunt – 5 orchids of different genera were set on chairs around my booth along with key facts about each genius. The children were given a paper with clues for each orchid. They searched for the correct live plant and wrote down the name or number. I gave away orchid tattoos when they brought back their sheet.
- Orchids as Food Sources - I had a vanilla orchid display as an example of a food item made from orchids. This included a small Vanilla planifolia orchid, vanilla beans, vanilla extract and an explanation about this orchid. I gave out little baggies with vanilla jelly beans for the children to try.
- How Orchids Grow in Nature - I had a Phalaenopsis orchid and Neostylis orchid which are growing on cork bark as examples of how epiphytic orchids grow in nature.
- Planting an Orchid - Small orchids of five different genera were given to the children to pot and take home. Care instructions for the orchids are provided below.
- Orchid Activities - Orchid coloring sheets and word find games were available.
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I would like to thank the following people for helping to make my booth at Judy's Day such a success:
- Carmela Orchids in Hawaii - They provided 225 beautiful little orchid seedlings at a
greatly reduced price for this event.
- Ithaca Agway True Value on Triphammer Road- They donated 12 bags of orchid media.
- Cornell's CALS Greenhouse - They donated the pots we used.
- Carmela Orchids in Hawaii - They provided 225 beautiful little orchid seedlings at a
greatly reduced price for this event.
- Ithaca Agway True Value on Triphammer Road- They donated 12 bags of orchid media.
- Cornell's CALS Greenhouse - They donated the pots we used.
Judy's Day Orchids
If you planted a little orchid at my booth during Judy's Day, you received one of the five orchids listed below. I've provided a photo of what your orchid will look like when it blooms, how long it should take to bloom, and some basic care instructions. If you have any questions about your orchid, please email me at [email protected]. I would also highly recommend visiting the American Orchid Society's website.
Seedling Care
All of the seedlings are epiphytic orchids and will require the same care until they mature. The care instructions provided below in red are for the seedlings you received. The care instructions provided below in blue with the orchid photos are specific to each mature orchid genus. The write-ups for each orchid genus will indicate how long it will take for the plant to reach maturity, which varies from 1 to 4 years.
Epiphytic means that, in the wild, these orchids would be growing in the air without soil or media around their roots. For this reason, their roots will need to almost dry out before being watered again. However, because these are young orchid plants, roughly 1 1/2 years old, they need a higher humidity around them. This can be accomplished by placing the pot in a saucer and keeping about a 1/4" of water in the saucer. The water will evaporate up around the orchid to provide the humidity it needs. Make sure its roots are not in the water, as this will rot the roots.
The best way to water these seedlings is to water the entire plant in your sink. Orchid leaves also absorb water and this method provides some of the needed humidity for the plant. Thoroughly drench the orchid and media and allow the plant to sit in your sink for about 5 minutes. Repeat this process and set the orchid in its saucer. The water will drain out into the saucer and provide additional humidity as it evaporates.
Temperature: 70F to 75F at all times
Light: Bright light, but not direct light. This could be an east, west or north facing window
that does not get any direct light. Make sure there isn't a draft coming in the window
that would chill the orchid during the winter.
Water: These seedlings will need to be watered about every 4 to 5 days, depending upon the
humidity in the house. You want the media to have just dried out before you water
again. Orchid roots are covered in a sponge-like substance, called velamen, that rots
very easily when kept in water. An easy trick is to put the tip of a wood pencil down
the side of the pot into the media. The wood will show any water remaining in the
media. Also, orchids like naturally soft, slightly acidic water. Orchids do not fair well
with water that has been treated with a softener or water that is highly chlorinated
or bromated. In these cases, use of rain water or deionized water is best.
Humidity: Normal household humidity will be fine if you keep the orchid in a saucer with
water.
Fertilizer: Fertilize once a month with a dilute orchid fertilizer. All plant fertilizers are
salts, so too much fertilizer can burn the young orchid roots.
Light: Bright light, but not direct light. This could be an east, west or north facing window
that does not get any direct light. Make sure there isn't a draft coming in the window
that would chill the orchid during the winter.
Water: These seedlings will need to be watered about every 4 to 5 days, depending upon the
humidity in the house. You want the media to have just dried out before you water
again. Orchid roots are covered in a sponge-like substance, called velamen, that rots
very easily when kept in water. An easy trick is to put the tip of a wood pencil down
the side of the pot into the media. The wood will show any water remaining in the
media. Also, orchids like naturally soft, slightly acidic water. Orchids do not fair well
with water that has been treated with a softener or water that is highly chlorinated
or bromated. In these cases, use of rain water or deionized water is best.
Humidity: Normal household humidity will be fine if you keep the orchid in a saucer with
water.
Fertilizer: Fertilize once a month with a dilute orchid fertilizer. All plant fertilizers are
salts, so too much fertilizer can burn the young orchid roots.
BLC - Brassolaeliocattleya Mem. Vida Lee 'Limelight'
This is a cross between three different orchid genera: Brassavola, Cattleya, and Laelia. This particular cross favors its Laelia parent. It will take another 3 to 4 years before it is mature enough to produce a bloom.
Temperature: 70 F to 85 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: Light is critical for Laelia and Cattleya genera. Mature plants even like early morning
or late afternoon direct sunlight. This can be accomplished by placing in an east or west
facing window or a shaded south facing window.
Water: Mature Laelia or Cattleya plants like to completely dry out before being watered. This
usually means watering the plant about once a week, depending upon the size of
the pot. It's best to bring the plant to your sink and water the entire plant and media.
Humidity: Laelia and Cattleya orchids also like a higher humidity, which can be satisfied by
placing the orchid in a saucer with a little water in the bottom.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.
This is a cross between three different orchid genera: Brassavola, Cattleya, and Laelia. This particular cross favors its Laelia parent. It will take another 3 to 4 years before it is mature enough to produce a bloom.
Temperature: 70 F to 85 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: Light is critical for Laelia and Cattleya genera. Mature plants even like early morning
or late afternoon direct sunlight. This can be accomplished by placing in an east or west
facing window or a shaded south facing window.
Water: Mature Laelia or Cattleya plants like to completely dry out before being watered. This
usually means watering the plant about once a week, depending upon the size of
the pot. It's best to bring the plant to your sink and water the entire plant and media.
Humidity: Laelia and Cattleya orchids also like a higher humidity, which can be satisfied by
placing the orchid in a saucer with a little water in the bottom.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.
DEN - Dendrobium Buttercup
The Dendrobium genus is a huge genus with species that have a wide variety of growth conditions. This species is known as a phalaenopsis-type dendrobium and is an evergreen Dendrobium that will have tall, thin pseudobulbs and keep its leaves all year. It also likes a lot of filtered light.
Temperature: 65 F to 75 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: Mature Dendrobiums like high levels of filtered light. This is easiest to do by putting
them in a shaded south facing window. They can tolerate early morning and late
afternoon direct sunlight.
Water: Dendrobiums like to just about dry out before being watered. Because they are in a
higher light location, they often dry out faster than other orchids. They may need to
continue to be watered every 3 to 4 days.
Humidity: Dendrobium orchids also like a higher humidity, which can be satisfied by
placing the orchid in a saucer with a little water in the bottom.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.
The Dendrobium genus is a huge genus with species that have a wide variety of growth conditions. This species is known as a phalaenopsis-type dendrobium and is an evergreen Dendrobium that will have tall, thin pseudobulbs and keep its leaves all year. It also likes a lot of filtered light.
Temperature: 65 F to 75 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: Mature Dendrobiums like high levels of filtered light. This is easiest to do by putting
them in a shaded south facing window. They can tolerate early morning and late
afternoon direct sunlight.
Water: Dendrobiums like to just about dry out before being watered. Because they are in a
higher light location, they often dry out faster than other orchids. They may need to
continue to be watered every 3 to 4 days.
Humidity: Dendrobium orchids also like a higher humidity, which can be satisfied by
placing the orchid in a saucer with a little water in the bottom.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.
MTSSA - Miltassia Dark Star
This is a cross between Brassia and Miltonia orchids. This particular Miltassia favors its Miltonia parent. This plant should bloom in 1 to 2 years.
Temperature: 60 F to 80 F daytime; 50 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: These orchids have very thin leaves that burn easily in direct sunlight. They do best in
east, west, or north facing windows that do not get any direct sunlight.
Water: Miltassias do not want their media to dry out. They should be planted in well-
drained media that is still a little damp when rewatered. Even mature plants will
need to be watered every 4 to 5 days.
Humidity: Miltassias also like higher humidity levels, which can be accomplished with
saucers under the plant that can hold about 1/4" of water.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer. Miltassias are very
susceptible to having their roots burned by fertilizers. It's important to
thoroughly flush the media during the weeks the plant is not being fertilized.
This is a cross between Brassia and Miltonia orchids. This particular Miltassia favors its Miltonia parent. This plant should bloom in 1 to 2 years.
Temperature: 60 F to 80 F daytime; 50 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: These orchids have very thin leaves that burn easily in direct sunlight. They do best in
east, west, or north facing windows that do not get any direct sunlight.
Water: Miltassias do not want their media to dry out. They should be planted in well-
drained media that is still a little damp when rewatered. Even mature plants will
need to be watered every 4 to 5 days.
Humidity: Miltassias also like higher humidity levels, which can be accomplished with
saucers under the plant that can hold about 1/4" of water.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer. Miltassias are very
susceptible to having their roots burned by fertilizers. It's important to
thoroughly flush the media during the weeks the plant is not being fertilized.
ONC - Oncidium Gower Ramsey
The Oncidium genus is another huge genus that has species that grow in a wide variety of conditions. This plant should bloom in about 1 year.
Temperature: 70 F to 85 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: Oncidiums do best in east, west, or north facing windows. They also like a few hours
of early morning or late afternoon direct sunlight.
Water: Oncidiums do not want their media to dry out. They should be planted in well-
drained media that is still a little damp when rewatered. Even mature plants will
need to be watered every 4 to 5 days.
Humidity: Oncidiums need lower humidity levels than most other orchid genera. They do not
need water in their saucers.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.
The Oncidium genus is another huge genus that has species that grow in a wide variety of conditions. This plant should bloom in about 1 year.
Temperature: 70 F to 85 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: Oncidiums do best in east, west, or north facing windows. They also like a few hours
of early morning or late afternoon direct sunlight.
Water: Oncidiums do not want their media to dry out. They should be planted in well-
drained media that is still a little damp when rewatered. Even mature plants will
need to be watered every 4 to 5 days.
Humidity: Oncidiums need lower humidity levels than most other orchid genera. They do not
need water in their saucers.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.
RLC - Rhyncholaeliocattleya Sharon Forsyth 'Orange Red'
This is a cross between a Rhyncholaelia and a Cattleya. It favors its Cattleya parent. It will take another 3 to 4 years to bloom.
Temperature: 70 F to 85 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: This orchid will like a lot of bright light. It does best in a shaded south facing window.
Water: Rhyncholaeliocattleyas like their media to dry out before watering again. Mature
plants can be watered every 5 to 7 days.
Humidity: These orchids like a moderate humidity of about 40%, which is normal household
humidity.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.
This is a cross between a Rhyncholaelia and a Cattleya. It favors its Cattleya parent. It will take another 3 to 4 years to bloom.
Temperature: 70 F to 85 F daytime; 55 F to 60 F nighttime
Light: This orchid will like a lot of bright light. It does best in a shaded south facing window.
Water: Rhyncholaeliocattleyas like their media to dry out before watering again. Mature
plants can be watered every 5 to 7 days.
Humidity: These orchids like a moderate humidity of about 40%, which is normal household
humidity.
Fertilizer: Fertilize every other week with a good orchid fertilizer.